Friday, July 03, 2009

IMAGES OF A ROUND THE WORLD HITCH-HIKING TRIP, IN TANDIL



Making a Photo Exhibition in Tandil, Argentina. he venue was offered by Tandil University Cultural Center. Title of the exhbition was "Images of a Round the World Hitch-hiking trip". More than 50 people attended the event.






After introducing myself and The Wizard (my backpack) we carried on with the slide of around 400 photographs. I thought they would be too many, but people kept their attention focused. Many of them later bought copies of my book "Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil" (Spanish version. English one coming soon). I also displayed a hundred of my hand made postcards. Rhey allow anyone to take a souvenir home, since they are cheaper than the 20x30 I always sell.




What is behind selling a photograph? There several dimensions beyond the economic side of it. Firstly, unlike the book, people can choose among the +100 pictures, letting me know something about their likes, dislikes, etc. More importantly, the energy of the photographed episoded comes back to me when someone chooses a picture. Kids smile again, and deserts print their austerity in my eyes once again... A magic evocation that claims time for already lived moments and make life reversible...





As I said, there is something fundamental behind a simple event. I have been a nomad fo 4 years now, and my e-mail contact list has around 1400 addresses, plus some 690 Facebook friends (clic here to find my profile and add me!) This forces me to inforce some discipline in the task of recording and organizing new contacts. As ii travel, I send general e-mails telling all this readers and friends where I am, and if there is any event coming. And then the desired alchemy happens: the virtual world touches the real one, when someone comes to the event thanks to an e-mail. In this case I could meet face to face dozens of readers I had never seen before. In the picture you can see Teresa foor instance. She would always comment my blog to check I was still alive while hiking in Tibet or Afghanistan. I could have never fortold this woman whose messages often gave me strenght was on a wheelchair.




Readres geting their book signed.




My girfriend Paula and Rocío. I had last seen Rocío, from the Cyclown Circus in Thailand in 2007. Imagine my surprise!



Friends at Tandil, Argentina.



A cute boy selling bicycles made from wire in the streets.




BY THE SHORES OF URUGUAY RIVER, IN ENTRE RIOS PROVINCE


Sticky Notice! Visit my online bookshop, order my book and keep me hitch-hiking around the world!
.

As I keep preparing the Americycle for my Argentina-Alaska trip, I take short rips around Argentina by hitch-hiking. Paula and I spent a nice weekend in Concepción del Uruguay and Colón, both cities in the Argentinean province of Entre Ríos. In the picture, one of the historic buildings that charm up the shores of Colón.





A rusty abandoned Wessel sets the scenes for lovers who can’t afford to rent a true Titanic for a romantic kiss.



As Colón is a touristy place, houses and guesthouses are painted in the fashion way their Buenos Aires counterpart are.



Zárate – Brazo Largo Bridge is the easiest access point for hitch-hikers thumbing north from the national capital.
.

THE CULT OF SAINT DEATH AND THE ARGENTINEAN ROADS


Our driver was called Javier and he was from Concordia, Entre Ríos. He stopped for to check the tires pressure in Gualeguay crossing and we were soon asking him wether he could take us south back to Buenos Aires. On board, the cabin of his Mercedes 1620 had its own iconography that including illustrations of different saints.
.
Among the classic stamp of Gauchito Gil and Difunta Correa, emerges the image of Death, with her own chopper. “It’s Saint Death” – affirms Javier, and proceeds to tell us the story of how he became a follower.
.
He had been working for years for a logistic company. He used to drive so fast that his boss seemed to trust Javier would always made it, no matter how distant was the goal. If there was a queue of fifty truck in the loading spot, he wouls be granted priority. He was a true king of the road. “Then they started sending me to Misiones province” – regrets. There the landscape is so hilly that you can hardly drive Fast. When going down a hill, actually, you need to have good breaking skills. On the contrary, Javier had fun descending at 120 km/h.
.
One day, on reaching the bottom of a steep hill, he found an old truck joining the main road from an unpaved track coming from the rainforest. It’s the kind of trucks carrying on illegal deforestation. E had no time to break and next time he opened his eyes he had all sorts of electrodes connected to his body. He lost her job, and his wife. A man who came suddenly out of nowhere –like the truck he had crushed with- gave him an illustration of Saint Death. As in a miracle, he got a better job and mended the relationship with his wife.




With a bit of research, I found that the cult had its origins in neighbouring Paraguay, as some kind of syncretism that takes roots in the Guarani tradition of worshipping the bones of your ancestors. Natives there used to ask for protection from physical pain and natural disasters.
.
During the Jesuits era this concept boarded the Christian entity of saint to form a new cult that hasn’t however been recognized by the church. Inner migrations forwarded the cult into other regions, such as the Argentinean provinces of Santa Fe. Corrientes, Chaco and Formosa, and south of Brasil. There is even a large sanctuary in RN 12 Km. 983, in Corrientes. Another example of how there is a lot to learn from hitch-hiking.

GASTRONOMY AND INMIGRATION IN ARGENTINEAN NORTHEAST (Salam Aleikum my gaucho!)


It was quite a surprise to find these two guys Dresde in Iraqi T-shirts selling shawarma, as I strolled the shores of Uruguay River, in Colón, Entre Ríos. I approached them in Arabic and of course they were true Iraqis who had migrated from Baghdad in 2002, precisely a year in which Argentina sent out huge waves of émigrés as a result of local crisis.



Aiming to seduce the pocket of patriots, the guy next stall made it clear he was selling Argentinean meet…



As for us, far from having passport related problems in our diet, we cooked this Dorado in a clay oven, spiced with chilli, herbs, lemon, etc. We bought it first hand to the fisherman who goes around the city in his bicycle…


Paula and I baking bread for dinner, filled up with salami and cheese.



Our hosts, Miguel and Paula.

Tuesday, June 09, 2009

VOLGADEUTSCHEN COLONIES IN ENTRE RIOS, ARGENTINA


This is how the streets of Valle María, a little rural town 50 km south of Paraná, the provincial capital of Entre Ríos, Argentina, look. From left to right, the German flag, the provincial and the national one. How do we arrive to this? The story begins in 1770, when the Russian tsar Catalina II invited Germans to populate a strip of land near the Volga River. After a short stage of hope, it turned out the lands were poor indeed, and moreover, the new generations were expected to line up in the Russian Army… SO emigration began towards South America. Many of them made it to Brazil, and after a time there head on south towards Argentina, where the government granted them lands in 1880. The Argentineans of the time, moved by a simplifier spirit, decided to nick them “Russians” full stop.



Paying attention to a road map of Entre Rios Province, the fact is clear. Hasenkamp, Spatzenkutter, Aldea Protestante, Valle María…. The last two still mark the religious differences the original settlers had when they set foot in the steam ship that brought them from Europe. Today the region still bears a visible ethnic Teutonic feature, but the language has been nearly lost, with a few exceptions I observed, as an 80 years old couple speaking out loud in old German while killing time in the supermarket queue…


Augusto Lucero, collegue from Autostop Argentina, and road mate in this short visit to Vale María, one of the German colonies. In the photo you can see him hitching with a reflective sign. Despite darkness came over, we managed to stop a Renault 18…





Signs of the German heritage can be observed in the name of local shops and companies.

THE LOCAL “BOLICHE” IN VALLE MARIA.


Carlos, the owner, opens our beer. His sad grind was later explained by other locals, who said he had been a rich landlord of the region, before loosing everything in Argentina’s hyperinflation of 1989.


Among the gin and the vermouth, a sign says: “We no longer keep your drinks. Once served, you drink it, take it home or throw it away!”



Locals were proud that at least some lost hitch-hiker remembers the existence of their villages. Notably, Carlos invited to stay overnight at his home. While another local toured us around his milk farm on the morning of our departure.

IMAGES OF VALLE MARIA, SOCCER AND STUDEBAKER.


"The other photograph"


Studebaker Champion.


POSSIBLE ENDS FOR OLD SCHOOL BUSES


One possibility is plain abandonment. The gradual rust conciliates technology and nature. Something Julio Cortázar would have called the unfair cycle of trash. Example: this Mercedes 1114 school bus will hardly have a different chance.


The other possibility as an extra flair of poetry. The bus, already disabled for its original task, ends up taking up a new job and avoiding retirement…. In the picture, a 1960 English-made Leyland renamed “Choribus”. Now it hosts the kitchen room! Instead of children, grilled sausages come out of its depths now. Well, there is not a big difference if you read it as a Pink Floyd The Wall metaphor.

Monday, May 11, 2009

HITCH-HKING COMPETITIONS IN GERMANY


Abgefahren e.V. presents the second german hitchhiking championships. It will take place from 12th to 13th June 2009. We will start in Karlsruhe and hitchhike in teams of two to a destination, which you will be told on the day we start. The team with the best time will win. But you can solve funny or exciting tasks on the way to get bonus time. The winning will winning some small prices. Info & Registration: http://race.abgefahren-ev.de/index.php?id=home&locale=en




On August 18th, Tramprennen 2009 will take place, starting in the German city of Kiel, and proposing a route of 2300 km all the way to Dubrovnik. More information on http://www.tramprennen.org/





My new book is out! Vagabonding in th Axis of Evil - By thumb in Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan is a detailed account of a one year long journey across the Muslim World, in search of the hospitality silenced by  mainstream media. The e-book contains 250 pages and colour photographs. You can learn more and  contribute towards the Educational Nomadic Project by ordering a copy here.

Wednesday, April 22, 2009

The Americycle and the Oniricycle....getting ready for the American roads

The curious piece of twisted metal visible in the photograph belong to the embryo of the Americycle, the vehicule in which I hope to complete the next leg of my round the world trip. Starting point will be Mar del Plata, my hometown in Argentina, with the goal flag waving in remote Alaska. The expedition is thought to last at least a year and a half.
.
I began this round the world trip in Belfast, Northern Ireland, on May, 1st 2005, the day I hitched a ride in a sailboat to Scotland. The first leg of the trip lasted 27 months, in which I exclusively hitch-hiked 70,000 km, encompassing 37 countries, and finished in Bangkok, Thailand. The aim of the first leg of the trip was to meticulously travel the Islamic World, with emphasis in Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan. The consequence of that experience was Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil – By thumb in Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan, my last book, available from my online bookshop at http://www.acrobatoftheroad.com/ The book mirrors hospitality and everyday life in a region often described as evil by the establishment media.


I got back from that trip on July 20th, 2007, and today, almost two years later, I am Reddy to hit the road again. I invested all the time in the meanwhile in writing and publishing my first book professionally. Finding a publishing house for the Spanish edition was not easy, but I managed after the self published edition became a best seller at the 4th Mar del Plata Book Fair. Also, I travelled a bit in Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador, but not at the slow pace I am used to.


Now is time for big trips again. The plan: to travel America from Argentina to Alaska, starting in Mar del Plata, Argentina, and roughly following Uruguayan and Brazilian coastlines. At some point, I envisage a detour into the Amazon region, before somehow taking in Suriname and the Guyanas. Venezuela and Colombia come naturally afterwards. From there, the obvious step would be to sneak in Panamá. Instead, Ecuador will be calling us from the South. I have a special and dear feel for Ecuador, a country for which I have developed an intuitive fraternity. Then it will be Central America’s turn, a strip to of land to discover while I climb up to Mexico, the U.S, Canada and Alaska. This time I will not travel alone. Juan Manuel will be riding his Oniricycle…

Hitch-hiking will not be the only mean of transportation involved this time. It is a hybrid trip! Movement along the main South to North route will happen in the Americycle. I will ride this fabulous machine between main cities dotting or itinerary. From these cities, I may unleash the fury of my thumb. Hey man, you can’t put an end to ten years for hitch-hiking just because you built a bike that looks funny! Briefly describe, the Americycle is a tall bike, a bike which height doubles that of a standard one. People ask us why are they so tall. They hope to find a practical reason for its weird shape, but truth is the Americycle is closer to a poem than to a mean of transportation.

The basic premise is: if a simple morphologic change in bicycle produces such astonishment, what can we expected from the alternatives to conventional society? If this is a bike, then imagine other revolutions… The variation in the outline aims to profit from the revolutionary potential of the absurd. From village to village and city to city thousands of eyes will be exposed to our mutant bicycles. In a way we are telling the,: hey, you know, things can be different! You don’t have to wait for the world to be changed; you can become active designer of your present day. Despite Hollywood cinema has trained us to believe that only the spectacular can withdraw an individual from his boring nine to five routine, simple awakenings can be more fruitful. The reordering of the same simple elements into a different figure is an act of insight. Look at the bike or look at society, the result is the same: discovery. Thus, the Americycle becomes a metaphor over wheels, a poetry powered vehicle. Besides this, the intriguing shape of the bike will deliver smiles as the continent unfolds, helping us therefore to make friends everywhere we set foot –or wheel- on.


Even though the Americycle has an exclusive design, the idea of tall bikes is almost a century old. The British are said to have invented them, as a gadget to train their colonial cavalry in camel races. Personally, I stumble upon this design in Capadoccia, Turkey, where I met the Cyclown Circus, a troupe of nine musicians and circus artists from different countries. The Cyclowns travelled the world performing their shows in streets, parks and bars ans selling their music in CD. I met them again in Kunming, China, and followed their steps onto Laos and Thailand, where I spent some time with them and even read some of my poetry in their shows. Back in Argentina, I decided to build my own tall bike, and there you have my Americycle!



This trip has diverse dimensions. Besides the objective fact of travelling and its derived pleasure, I always tend to elaborate cultural products based on each trip, such as this blog, the book and the pictures. Now, the project is to bring an itinerant photographic exhibition from village to village, from town to town, across the continent. An exhibition based on the everyday life and hospitality of the visited countries. We hardly oppose centralism in the matter of cultural divulgation. Big cities have always concentrated the arena for cultural activity in Latin America. Thus, our idea is to bring the exhibition to villages, small cities, and peripheral spaces of big urban hubs, such as humble neighbourhoods, suburbs, etc.

Bringing the world’s diversity to locations with scant access to cultural output is only one side of a coin. We are not philanthropic heralds of culture in a charity trip, not at all. There is an exchange going on. When I make a photographic exhibition about, let’s say, Middle East, in a village of Amazonia or a suburb of Caracas, I also expect to be able to photograph these people’s lifestyles. At some point, I may end up organizing a photo exhibition about South America in Middle East. The traveller becomes a bridge between the nations that host his steps.



Bringing the world’s diversity to locations with scant access to cultural output is only one side of a coin. We are not philanthropic heralds of culture in a charity trip, not at all. There is an exchange going on. When I make a photographic exhibition about, let’s say, Middle East, in a village of Amazonia or a suburb of Caracas, I also expect to be able to photograph these people’s lifestyles. At some point, I may end up organizing a photo exhibition about South America in Middle East. The traveller becomes a bridge between the nations that host his steps.



Well beyond the pragmatic, both the Americycle (my tall bike) and he Oniricycle (Juan Manuel’s tall bike) are provided with poem launchers. What is that? Even if the bikes themselves are urban interventions, we are planning to emphasize this aspect by shooting poetry from our bikes. We are currently designing some sot of device able to hurl a rolled poem several meters away. So far, several Internet searches have only shown us artefacts that shoot bullets and missiles, not poems. Here must be a million patented machines to shoot death, and not a single one that delivers poetry.



The other well kept secret about our weirdcycles is that, well, they are also postal vehicles! We propose a free inter American mail service, for anyone wanting to send a letter to any point in our itinerary. We are indeed in the process of designing our own stamps.



How are we planning to finance ourselves? As usual, I will be selling my self published books, containing travel stories. In this case, the star book is the fresh “Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil – By thumb in Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan”. The exhibited pictures will also be, as usual, for sale, in 20x30 (A4) and 10x15 handmade postcard formats. Juan Manuel has not discard he possibility of charging curious a small fee for riding his Oniricycle, and may as well produce and sell his classic bonbons. In this sense, the striking appearance of the bikes is a good sales platform and a god starter for making friends. At this point, aesthetics become a junction where the philosophic and the pragmatic meet.

The blog will provide a systematic account of this adventure, both of the cycling and the hitch-hiking stages. As always, your complicity through comments and emails will be most appreciated. Those buying the book, of course, will become real sponsors of our vagabonding….

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

The new book (Spanish Version) and its consequences


Vagabuendeando en el Eje del Mal - Redescubriendo Irak, Iran y Afganistán a dedo is the Spanish version of "Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil - Redecovering Irak, Iran and Afghanistan by hitch-hiking". With 176 pages it is my first published book, and it is availbale in libraries across Argentina. When I continue my round the world trip, in febraury 09, I will continue to sell more humble, self-publshed versions in order to keep me traveling.



The book, in the shelves of Alejandría Libros, Mar del Plata, during the Book Fair.



Official presentation of the book, in the Teatro Auditorium´s Bodega space. The event was conducted by writer, and former editor of my weekly column in La Capital newspaper, Fernando del Rio. You can see The Wizard (my backpack) seated next to me.



Buenos Aires, december 16th. Presentation of the book at MU Cultural Centre, and picture exhibition. Some 80 people attended the event.


People trying to make sense of the nearly 600 pictures I dared to project on big screen during the event. Pictures showed meaningful moments of my 27 months long hitch-hiking expedition from Ireland to Thailand via Middle East and Afghanistan.


Signing books in Mar del Plata´s Rotary Club, who invited me to exhibit the same pictures in their venue in the cities harbour.

The book at Mar del Plata´s Book Fair


"Vagabundeando en el Eje del Mal", the Spanish version of "Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil", my last book based on my hitch-hiking journey across Turkey, Syria, Irak and Afghanistan has just been printed. I had the chance to promote it inside the Book Fair that takes place every year in Mar del Plata´s Hotel Provincial. Above, you can see the ad of my book presentation.


With the Wizard, my backpack, and the Michelin World Map I have always carried with me showing the route of the trip. In my hands, the new book, that will soon be in English as well. It was a pleasure to be there, meeting all those readers that for years have followed my chronicles in La Capital newspaper, now meeting them face to face... You can order the Spanish version of the book online at www.acrobatadelcamino.com/vagabundeando.html

Richard Hardwood reloaded.

How could I know, when I first met Richard in the mountains of Northern Pakistan, that he was going to be present at my book presentation two years later in Mar del Plata, my city. It turned out that sooner of later, this 60 years old brit on a round the world tour with his BMW R-100 had to by pass my beloved city...

What none of us could have predicted, is that our meeting up would be casted on TV for thousands of people. And that happened. When the Book´s Fair Press Chief knew the story, he sent cameramen to the streets to wait for Richard´s arrival...
I had met Richard in Chitral, Northern Pakistan. At the moment his bike´s electronic starter was broken, and Chitrali mechanics, in the absence of owner´s manual, were looking for solutions in the Holy Coran...

Monday, December 22, 2008

Buenos Aires, meeting point for travel writers...


I have spent a few weeks in Buenos Aires, where I have been quite busy both getting the new printed Spanish version of my book (Vagabundeando en el Eje del Mal) and selling the old one in the cafés at Palermo area. Being in the big city also allowed me to meet in real life fellow travel writers, mostly in -or just back from- long term traveling.
In the picture, you can see me with Herman and Candelaria Zapp, whose journey from Argentina to Alaska in a 1928 Graham Paige has inspired hundreds to hit the road. The weird biike in the picture is an oniricycle. And it will be my vehicle in the next leg of my round the world trip, from Argentina to Alaska, from Feb 09. I hope tthe meeting with the Zapp family brings luck to my humble vehicle.... Herman and Candelaria website: www.argentinaalaska.com



I also met Katja and Augustas, who have been on the road for two years, on a journey they started in México and completed southwards by thumb. Katjia (Germany) and Augustas (Lithuania) report their journey in www.followtheroad.com Katjia is now prepearing a book they hope to sell as they continue traveling....



I attended an informal meeting organized by Pablo and Ana Rey (www.viajeros4x4x4.wordpress.com) They have been 8 years on the road, in a Mitsubishi van. Their journey through Africa has been really impressive, and they have put it down in a book they offer through their website, though it may be difficult to find where to clic!



Ezequiel Fernandez traveled from Argentina to Mexico on a 1979 Renault 6... as he likes to say "looking for my way" . He is now about to publish a book titled "Con la nave" (With the ship) that will soon offer online (Spanish version only) at www.viajeenrenoleta.blogspot.com