Wednesday, April 22, 2009

The Americycle and the Oniricycle....getting ready for the American roads

The curious piece of twisted metal visible in the photograph belong to the embryo of the Americycle, the vehicule in which I hope to complete the next leg of my round the world trip. Starting point will be Mar del Plata, my hometown in Argentina, with the goal flag waving in remote Alaska. The expedition is thought to last at least a year and a half.
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I began this round the world trip in Belfast, Northern Ireland, on May, 1st 2005, the day I hitched a ride in a sailboat to Scotland. The first leg of the trip lasted 27 months, in which I exclusively hitch-hiked 70,000 km, encompassing 37 countries, and finished in Bangkok, Thailand. The aim of the first leg of the trip was to meticulously travel the Islamic World, with emphasis in Turkey, Syria, Iraq, Afghanistan and Pakistan. The consequence of that experience was Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil – By thumb in Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan, my last book, available from my online bookshop at http://www.acrobatoftheroad.com/ The book mirrors hospitality and everyday life in a region often described as evil by the establishment media.


I got back from that trip on July 20th, 2007, and today, almost two years later, I am Reddy to hit the road again. I invested all the time in the meanwhile in writing and publishing my first book professionally. Finding a publishing house for the Spanish edition was not easy, but I managed after the self published edition became a best seller at the 4th Mar del Plata Book Fair. Also, I travelled a bit in Argentina, Chile, Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador, but not at the slow pace I am used to.


Now is time for big trips again. The plan: to travel America from Argentina to Alaska, starting in Mar del Plata, Argentina, and roughly following Uruguayan and Brazilian coastlines. At some point, I envisage a detour into the Amazon region, before somehow taking in Suriname and the Guyanas. Venezuela and Colombia come naturally afterwards. From there, the obvious step would be to sneak in Panamá. Instead, Ecuador will be calling us from the South. I have a special and dear feel for Ecuador, a country for which I have developed an intuitive fraternity. Then it will be Central America’s turn, a strip to of land to discover while I climb up to Mexico, the U.S, Canada and Alaska. This time I will not travel alone. Juan Manuel will be riding his Oniricycle…

Hitch-hiking will not be the only mean of transportation involved this time. It is a hybrid trip! Movement along the main South to North route will happen in the Americycle. I will ride this fabulous machine between main cities dotting or itinerary. From these cities, I may unleash the fury of my thumb. Hey man, you can’t put an end to ten years for hitch-hiking just because you built a bike that looks funny! Briefly describe, the Americycle is a tall bike, a bike which height doubles that of a standard one. People ask us why are they so tall. They hope to find a practical reason for its weird shape, but truth is the Americycle is closer to a poem than to a mean of transportation.

The basic premise is: if a simple morphologic change in bicycle produces such astonishment, what can we expected from the alternatives to conventional society? If this is a bike, then imagine other revolutions… The variation in the outline aims to profit from the revolutionary potential of the absurd. From village to village and city to city thousands of eyes will be exposed to our mutant bicycles. In a way we are telling the,: hey, you know, things can be different! You don’t have to wait for the world to be changed; you can become active designer of your present day. Despite Hollywood cinema has trained us to believe that only the spectacular can withdraw an individual from his boring nine to five routine, simple awakenings can be more fruitful. The reordering of the same simple elements into a different figure is an act of insight. Look at the bike or look at society, the result is the same: discovery. Thus, the Americycle becomes a metaphor over wheels, a poetry powered vehicle. Besides this, the intriguing shape of the bike will deliver smiles as the continent unfolds, helping us therefore to make friends everywhere we set foot –or wheel- on.


Even though the Americycle has an exclusive design, the idea of tall bikes is almost a century old. The British are said to have invented them, as a gadget to train their colonial cavalry in camel races. Personally, I stumble upon this design in Capadoccia, Turkey, where I met the Cyclown Circus, a troupe of nine musicians and circus artists from different countries. The Cyclowns travelled the world performing their shows in streets, parks and bars ans selling their music in CD. I met them again in Kunming, China, and followed their steps onto Laos and Thailand, where I spent some time with them and even read some of my poetry in their shows. Back in Argentina, I decided to build my own tall bike, and there you have my Americycle!



This trip has diverse dimensions. Besides the objective fact of travelling and its derived pleasure, I always tend to elaborate cultural products based on each trip, such as this blog, the book and the pictures. Now, the project is to bring an itinerant photographic exhibition from village to village, from town to town, across the continent. An exhibition based on the everyday life and hospitality of the visited countries. We hardly oppose centralism in the matter of cultural divulgation. Big cities have always concentrated the arena for cultural activity in Latin America. Thus, our idea is to bring the exhibition to villages, small cities, and peripheral spaces of big urban hubs, such as humble neighbourhoods, suburbs, etc.

Bringing the world’s diversity to locations with scant access to cultural output is only one side of a coin. We are not philanthropic heralds of culture in a charity trip, not at all. There is an exchange going on. When I make a photographic exhibition about, let’s say, Middle East, in a village of Amazonia or a suburb of Caracas, I also expect to be able to photograph these people’s lifestyles. At some point, I may end up organizing a photo exhibition about South America in Middle East. The traveller becomes a bridge between the nations that host his steps.



Bringing the world’s diversity to locations with scant access to cultural output is only one side of a coin. We are not philanthropic heralds of culture in a charity trip, not at all. There is an exchange going on. When I make a photographic exhibition about, let’s say, Middle East, in a village of Amazonia or a suburb of Caracas, I also expect to be able to photograph these people’s lifestyles. At some point, I may end up organizing a photo exhibition about South America in Middle East. The traveller becomes a bridge between the nations that host his steps.



Well beyond the pragmatic, both the Americycle (my tall bike) and he Oniricycle (Juan Manuel’s tall bike) are provided with poem launchers. What is that? Even if the bikes themselves are urban interventions, we are planning to emphasize this aspect by shooting poetry from our bikes. We are currently designing some sot of device able to hurl a rolled poem several meters away. So far, several Internet searches have only shown us artefacts that shoot bullets and missiles, not poems. Here must be a million patented machines to shoot death, and not a single one that delivers poetry.



The other well kept secret about our weirdcycles is that, well, they are also postal vehicles! We propose a free inter American mail service, for anyone wanting to send a letter to any point in our itinerary. We are indeed in the process of designing our own stamps.



How are we planning to finance ourselves? As usual, I will be selling my self published books, containing travel stories. In this case, the star book is the fresh “Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil – By thumb in Iraq, Iran and Afghanistan”. The exhibited pictures will also be, as usual, for sale, in 20x30 (A4) and 10x15 handmade postcard formats. Juan Manuel has not discard he possibility of charging curious a small fee for riding his Oniricycle, and may as well produce and sell his classic bonbons. In this sense, the striking appearance of the bikes is a good sales platform and a god starter for making friends. At this point, aesthetics become a junction where the philosophic and the pragmatic meet.

The blog will provide a systematic account of this adventure, both of the cycling and the hitch-hiking stages. As always, your complicity through comments and emails will be most appreciated. Those buying the book, of course, will become real sponsors of our vagabonding….

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

The new book (Spanish Version) and its consequences


Vagabuendeando en el Eje del Mal - Redescubriendo Irak, Iran y Afganistán a dedo is the Spanish version of "Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil - Redecovering Irak, Iran and Afghanistan by hitch-hiking". With 176 pages it is my first published book, and it is availbale in libraries across Argentina. When I continue my round the world trip, in febraury 09, I will continue to sell more humble, self-publshed versions in order to keep me traveling.



The book, in the shelves of Alejandría Libros, Mar del Plata, during the Book Fair.



Official presentation of the book, in the Teatro Auditorium´s Bodega space. The event was conducted by writer, and former editor of my weekly column in La Capital newspaper, Fernando del Rio. You can see The Wizard (my backpack) seated next to me.



Buenos Aires, december 16th. Presentation of the book at MU Cultural Centre, and picture exhibition. Some 80 people attended the event.


People trying to make sense of the nearly 600 pictures I dared to project on big screen during the event. Pictures showed meaningful moments of my 27 months long hitch-hiking expedition from Ireland to Thailand via Middle East and Afghanistan.


Signing books in Mar del Plata´s Rotary Club, who invited me to exhibit the same pictures in their venue in the cities harbour.

The book at Mar del Plata´s Book Fair


"Vagabundeando en el Eje del Mal", the Spanish version of "Vagabonding in the Axis of Evil", my last book based on my hitch-hiking journey across Turkey, Syria, Irak and Afghanistan has just been printed. I had the chance to promote it inside the Book Fair that takes place every year in Mar del Plata´s Hotel Provincial. Above, you can see the ad of my book presentation.


With the Wizard, my backpack, and the Michelin World Map I have always carried with me showing the route of the trip. In my hands, the new book, that will soon be in English as well. It was a pleasure to be there, meeting all those readers that for years have followed my chronicles in La Capital newspaper, now meeting them face to face... You can order the Spanish version of the book online at www.acrobatadelcamino.com/vagabundeando.html

Richard Hardwood reloaded.

How could I know, when I first met Richard in the mountains of Northern Pakistan, that he was going to be present at my book presentation two years later in Mar del Plata, my city. It turned out that sooner of later, this 60 years old brit on a round the world tour with his BMW R-100 had to by pass my beloved city...

What none of us could have predicted, is that our meeting up would be casted on TV for thousands of people. And that happened. When the Book´s Fair Press Chief knew the story, he sent cameramen to the streets to wait for Richard´s arrival...
I had met Richard in Chitral, Northern Pakistan. At the moment his bike´s electronic starter was broken, and Chitrali mechanics, in the absence of owner´s manual, were looking for solutions in the Holy Coran...

Monday, December 22, 2008

Buenos Aires, meeting point for travel writers...


I have spent a few weeks in Buenos Aires, where I have been quite busy both getting the new printed Spanish version of my book (Vagabundeando en el Eje del Mal) and selling the old one in the cafés at Palermo area. Being in the big city also allowed me to meet in real life fellow travel writers, mostly in -or just back from- long term traveling.
In the picture, you can see me with Herman and Candelaria Zapp, whose journey from Argentina to Alaska in a 1928 Graham Paige has inspired hundreds to hit the road. The weird biike in the picture is an oniricycle. And it will be my vehicle in the next leg of my round the world trip, from Argentina to Alaska, from Feb 09. I hope tthe meeting with the Zapp family brings luck to my humble vehicle.... Herman and Candelaria website: www.argentinaalaska.com



I also met Katja and Augustas, who have been on the road for two years, on a journey they started in México and completed southwards by thumb. Katjia (Germany) and Augustas (Lithuania) report their journey in www.followtheroad.com Katjia is now prepearing a book they hope to sell as they continue traveling....



I attended an informal meeting organized by Pablo and Ana Rey (www.viajeros4x4x4.wordpress.com) They have been 8 years on the road, in a Mitsubishi van. Their journey through Africa has been really impressive, and they have put it down in a book they offer through their website, though it may be difficult to find where to clic!



Ezequiel Fernandez traveled from Argentina to Mexico on a 1979 Renault 6... as he likes to say "looking for my way" . He is now about to publish a book titled "Con la nave" (With the ship) that will soon offer online (Spanish version only) at www.viajeenrenoleta.blogspot.com




Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Road tatoo


When the road penetrates your skin, your soul does not belong you anymore...
Model: Nicolás, from Buenos Aires. Five years traveling South America.

Sunday, November 02, 2008

On the dry, hot and thirsty roads of La Rioja

On the way from Jachal, San Juan to the hitch-hiker`s meeting in Cerro Colorado, Córdoba, we had to cross deserted La Rioja Province… In the beginning we thought we had made a bad move when accepting a ride to Talampaya NP...
Not so many cars on the road, as you can see. We even had time to invent possible "Quilmes" adds targeting hitch-hikers...


Tipic landscape in Argentinean Norhwest.


Thumbing shadows...


... but then we got on the wave. hitch-hiking is like surfing, you have to catch the wave...Let´s call it "roadsurfing" on the pic, the truck that took us to Chamical, La Rioja.



Near Talampaya National Park, La Rioja.


Camping under a bridge in Cruz del Eje, already in Córdoba Province.

Time to clean the backpack!


A neccesary laundry session for "La Maga", my backpack. La Maga is named after a character of Julio Cortázar´s novel "Hopscocht".

Mogna, stoic and isolated...

It is clear to me that towns in San Juan province, Argentina, should be independent kingdoms. Each is proud of its kind and lineage, and without thinking too much of itself would prefer not be included under confusing and labels… Mogna is an example of it…
On the way to Jachal we had been shocked at the sight of a road sign pointing 6o km inside the desert to a town called Mogna. Once in Jachal we got to know that the town was celebrating its 255 anniversary and managed to get a ride in a pick up from the town hall. I offered to set up a Photo exhibition of Afghanistan as contribution to the event.



The idea, show pictures of Afghanistan to the people of Mogna, and take pictures of them to show elsewhere. Doña Raquel Carrizo (70 years old) was very happy to be photographed while preparing mate. She carefully adds yerba and ajenjo, a local plant. She always sits under the same tree, that was already an old tree when she settled there 50 years ago. Her family lives from livestock herding, specially goats.


Hands at work... Doña Raquel knows how to prepare the best mates...



More than a hundred people had "goat" barbacue on the anniversary lunch. Even the governor was there talking all sorts of bullshit. He arrived in helicopter to a town with no paved roads.


I got permission to set up the Photo exhibition in a classroom at the primary school. I am intending, from now on, to set up photo exhibitions in each town I drop by on my way from Argentina to Alaska (starting Feb 2009). An interesting fact is that you receive very different feedbacks depending in each place you go. And these feedbacks become raw material for analysis themselves. People in Mogna regarded the landscapes of Afghanistan shown in my pictures as familiar to them! Also, some people at Mogna, were happy to buy my book.


Sunset on the way back to Jachal.

Weath nostalgia

The Molino Sardinia is guarded by his last carer, Don Chicho, who is 80 years old and talks soflty about the times in which the nearby road was full of trucks waiting to load the essential grain.


Houses around Pampa del Chañar, San Juan, Argentina.

There was a time when Jachal was a prosperous wealth producing region. Evidences from this period are not immediately obvious nowadays. Driving in the direction of Pampas del Chañar, houses that look suspectufuly large and sturdy start to emerge in the dusty landscape. Before the Pampas region positioned as the main exporting region, Jachal sent its loads of grains to Chile and Bolivia. In the 1900s, when the railway connected the Pampas to rest of the country, the region became logistically isolated and decline. Still, the mills used to process wealth can be seen.


After 50 years working....still there. i think I couldn´t possibly work in the same place for more than five months, and would definetly not stay for fun in my workplace for ten or twenty years, I guess he is making some overtime...




All the machinery inside the mill had been imported from Germany.

Children´s day in Tres Esquinas, San Juan, Argentina.


Radio Antena 1 from San Juan city sponsored a party for the children at Tres Esquinas, a rural district near Jachal, San Juan, Argentina. There was chocolate for everyone and of course many games. Differently from expected, the organizers suggested old traditional games, as trying to bit a hanging apple with your hands tied....!

Car dumpsites: waiting hall for the karma.

Where some people only see old cars rusting away I see a request, a humble patience of old parts to reincarnate. At some point, somebody will enter Pedro’s place and ask for parts for restoration…

In this picture you can see Steven struggling to unscrew a part of a 1960s Bergantin. Somebody had just walked in and asked for the speedometer as well.


1960s Auto Union


Inside the Auto Union.


1960s F-100 Ford pick up.



1940 Ford pick up and a constellation of tyres.



Sunday, October 19, 2008

CANADIAN TRANSNATIONAL MINING COMPANIES SEIZE JACHAL, ARGENTINA.

On arrival to Jachal, our local contact, Pedro Robledos, quickly gave us a tour of the place. Not the kind of tours where you tick off monuments and sights, but a revolutionary one. He was involved in all local issues in the way you would advice anybody to be, and exlpained us the whole conflict with Barrick Mining Company, among the different foreign companies that have established mines to extract gold. In exchange for a few jobs, the mines polute the rivers which are vital for agriculture in the region. And of course they have teamed up sociologists and pasicologists to convince the population they the commit a sustainable and harmless activity...


But you can see what people actually thinks...


A painting exhibition in town. If you get close you can see the hopeless faces of this family.


Steven discussing different issues with the artist.



Pedro and his friends, from jachal, San Juan Province, Argentina. He was a great host!